Anne-Sophie Dubois is a Beaujolais star who makes Burgundian Gamay, age-worthy Fleuries with the structure and confidence of serious Pinot Noir, largely eschewing carbonic in favor of a more Burgundian approach. Sans Detour sits slightly outside that frame. It is built primarily from Gamaret, a Swiss cross of Gamay and Reichensteiner that Dubois became fascinated by and planted on her Fleurie estate, an unauthorized variety in Beaujolais that pushes the wine into the Vin de France category. The result is a touch more rustic than her Fleuries but still unmistakably hers: aromatic, acid-driven, structured, and beautifully drawn (she does her own labels).