Extremadura, the sun-baked plain between Madrid and Portugal, is far better known for jamon than for fine wine, which makes Altos de Montanchez, reportedly the region’s only organic estate, a genuine frontier find. Juan Sojo and Angel Luis Gonzalez farm old vines at around 550 meters, harvesting by hand at night under September’s full moon and hand-sorting every cluster. This Vegas Altas is 100% Tempranillo, fermented spontaneously with native yeasts in concrete, then raised in steel to keep the fruit bright and unadorned. Bottled unfined and unfiltered with barely any sulfur, it is a light, dry, honest red that tastes like its wild high-plains home.