Holtermann is a 2.56-acre Pinot Noir vineyard at 700-800 feet just north of Annapolis, about five miles inland from Sea Ranch on the far northern reach of the West Sonoma Coast. The soils are sandy loam over marine sediment and volcanic rock, and the climate is among the coldest sites in California where Pinot still ripens reliably. Alma Fria has farmed it since the project’s founding, and the wine is the structural, savory counterpoint to their warmer-site Pinots: blood orange and pomegranate fruit, forest-floor undertow, real grip. Carroll Kemp’s winemaking is hands-off, all native yeast and judicious oak.