Pascal Agrapart makes several single-vintage Champagnes off the same Avize hillside, each vinified identically so the soil does the talking and Mineral is the chalk speaking at full volume. It’s drawn from two lower-slope, pure-chalk parcels, in Avize and neighboring Cramant, of 40-plus-year-old Chardonnay, the coolest and most crystalline sites in his range. Native-yeast fermented in seasoned oak and dosed barely at all, it’s the taut, laser-cut, salt-and-stone bottling precision over power. This is grower Champagne from one of the Cote des Blancs’ quiet legends, chalk you can practically taste.