The Verset name is Cornas royalty Noel Verset’s old-vine Syrahs now trade as four-figure auction unicorns. His grand-niece Emmanuelle, working the family’s inherited Northern Rhone vines alongside her father Alain, keeps that old-school spirit alive in bottles you can actually open on a Tuesday. This is her Viognier, declassified to humble Vin de France and organically farmed, delivering the famous grape of Condrieu apricot, peach, a whiff of honeysuckle without the Condrieu ransom. Round and fleshy but never heavy, it’s the aromatic white to pour when you want to drink a little above your pay grade.